Archive for October, 2007

Choices for Pet Identification

Wednesday, October 31st, 2007

It is important for the welfare of your pet for them to
wear some kind of identification. There are a few options
for providing id for your cat or dog, each with benefits
and drawbacks.

The first and most common is the id tag. This is usually
metal, but increasingly can be made of plastic or even
paper. Metal tags last the longest and resist scratching.

The id tag is attached to the collar, usually using a
figure-eight type hook or a double circle. The figure
-eight is usually a sturdier connection.

This type of pet identification tag needs to be engraved.
You can choose to put whatever you want on the tag. At a
minimum the tag should include the animal’s name and your
phone number. If space allows, it is a good idea to provide
at least one additional phone number, such as a cell phone,
a neighbor or your vet.

By providing your address as well, the pet can be returned
to you by the person finding it. City and state are not
necessary; usually the animal is lost close to home. A zip
code or area code is useful in case the animal gets loose
somewhere farther away.

Temporary ids are made from paper or cardboard, which are
then laminated or inserted into a plastic holder. These
types of id tags are great for when you are traveling with
your pet. Attach them to the collar in addition to the
regular id. The temporary id should have the phone number
or numbers where you can be reached, perhaps with the dates
that you will be at these numbers.

In addition to the tags that hang from the collar ring,
some collars can be imprinted or embroidered with
identification details. Also, you can order a flat id that
is threaded onto the collar. The drawback to this kind of
tag is that it is not easily seen, and unless the finder
looks for it, he may think the animal does not have a tag.
The benefit is that it is unlikely to fall off, unless of
course the entire collar is lost.

An even more permanent type of identification is the
microchip. This is a relatively new technique that is
becoming more and more common. Most animal shelters now
automatically chip the animals when they are adopted.

The information embedded in the microchip also resides on
the providing company’s database, and can be accessed from
anywhere in the country. The chip can then be traced back
to the purchaser of the chip, not necessarily directly to
you.

One drawback to this kind of id is that it is invisible,
although the animal can wear a tag stating that it has the
chip. The dog or cat must be taken to a veterinarian, an
animal shelter or a police station for the chip to be read.
Not all chips are compatible with all scanners, although
improvements have been made in this area.

The firms that provide the chip also provide a recovery
service. This is separate from the chip registration. An
annual fee is charged. You register your pet with your
information. If the pet is found and taken to someone who
can scan the chip, the animal can be returned to you within
twenty-four hours. There are also independent companies
that provide lost-pet services, using any microchip brand.

—————————————————-
Elyse Grau is an herbalist and a long-time pet owner,
well-versed in pet nutrition and feeding. She is the author
of Pet Health Resource, your web guide to a healthy, happy
dog or cat. The website strives to answer your holistic pet
health questions through a large collection of articles.
http://www.pethealthresource.com

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Dog Body and Mouth Odor (how to get rid of it effectively)

Wednesday, October 31st, 2007

If you have ever owned a dog, then you have smelled it
- dog breath. It can knock you over, bring
strong-stomached men to their knees, and even overpower
small children, and it’s nothing to laugh about. Right
along with “dog breath” comes that other great smell -
“dog”. There is no need to explain it any further,
everyone knows what “dog” smells like. Getting rid of that
“dog” smell or dog breath is no small feat either, as every
pet owner knows. There are many great dog grooming tips
and techniques that have been tried over the centuries, and
few have stood the test of smell. There are so many
products to choose from, dog deodorizers and colognes, dog
dryers, dog toothbrushes, but they all seem so odd. So,
how do you get rid of dog odors for good? Well, here are a
couple of tips to help you find the cure.

That “dog” smell - If you have a dog that just smells
terrible, and you feel like you have tried all the old
wives tales out there, then you need to head down to the
local dog groomer and learn some dog grooming tips that you
can use at home after a bath or brushing. Your local dog
groomer can suggest some great dog grooming accessories
that you can purchase to help keep your pet smelling less
like a dog when you get home. And, they can tell you the
best shampoos to use on your pet to keep them smelling,
looking, and feeling their best.

That “dog breath” - There are many products out there that
advertise that they help to cure “dog breath” and then
don’t cut the mustard. So, once you have tried them all,
where do you turn? Well, your local vet can help you here.
The vet can suggest some great dog grooming tips for “dog
breath” that will help to knock it out. If these fail,
then your vet can suggest and prescribe some medications
that you give your pet daily that will help to knock out
the dog breath before it knocks you over. Some dog
grooming supply shops will have these medications in stock
in an over-the-counter dose, so you can also check there
before purchasing expensive medications.

If your pet has “dog breath” or smells like a dog, don’t
fret. Just remember that there are plenty of dog grooming
techniques and tips that you can learn from local groomers
and vets that will help you to keep your dog on the sweet
smelling side of life. You can also purchase some great
dog grooming accessories that will help you accomplish this
as well. Knowing how to treat and prevent these less than
wonderful smells will help you, and your pet, to have a
more loving relationship!

—————————————————-
Visit http://www.PetsEverywhere.com for more fun ideas to
spend time with your pets.

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Protecting Your Cats and Dogs in Winter

Wednesday, October 31st, 2007

In the summer we worry about keeping our pets cool, come
winter and it’s time to think about keeping them warm and
dry. Here are some simple ways you can protect your pets
this winter.

The simplest and best way to make sure your pets stay warm
this winter is to keep them inside, especially at night.
Older dogs, puppies, and dogs with certain diseases such as
diabetes, heart and kidney problems should never be kept
outside. All cats should remain indoors.

Some dogs tolerate cold weather better than others. Dogs
bred in cold climates, Alaskan Malamutes for example, and
other long-haired dogs are among those suited for cold
weather. Short -haired and toy dogs will have a
particularly hard time in the cold.

Snow and ice can pose problems for dogs. Snow can get
packed between dog’s toes and freeze, causing pain and
discomfort. To avoid this problem, keep the hair between
the toes cut short.

Keeping nails cut short also helps. Shorter nails allow for
better traction. If a dog is slipping on ice it tends to
splay the toes, which causes more snow to pack between them.

If you are walking your dog on sidewalks or streets that
have been salted to melt ice, be sure to wash his paws when
you return. The salt can be drying and irritating to the
paws.

If a dog must be kept outside during the day, be sure to
provide proper shelter. An oversized dog house or shed will
not retain enough heat. The house should be just large
enough for the dog to stand up and turn around.

Do not use blankets for bedding. These will just get wet
and freeze. Clean straw or hay is preferable.

Position the house on the south or east side of the house
if possible, out of the wind. Putting it on a raised
platform will also keep it a little warmer.

Remember that the dog’s water may freeze if left outside.
Putting the water in a deep container helps keep it from
freezing. Also plastic is a better choice in this case, as
metal conducts the cold quicker. Dark colors will absorb
more heat and therefore freeze slower than lighter colors.
Be sure to break up any ice on the surface of the water
each morning.

Are you aware of the dangers of antifreeze? Ethylene glycol
based antifreeze is deadly to cats and dogs! Be sure to
keep containers tightly capped and out of reach. Wipe up
any spills immediately. For the safest bet, use one of the
alternative products made with propylene glycol instead.

Outdoor cats will look for warm spots to curl up. Some cats
have learned that cars and trucks offer nice warm nooks.
They will crawl up into the wheel-wells or engine
compartments. Banging on the hood before you get in your
car is a good idea in case you have a stowaway.

Indoors, pets will often curl up next to heaters or under
wood stoves. Watch out for tails and fur getting too close
to heating elements! Make sure your cat does not overheat.

If you are going to have a Christmas tree, you may want to
take some precautions with it. Anchoring the tree to the
wall is a good precaution. Avoid using tinsel, as it is
very enticing to cats and can be dangerous if ingested.
Start hanging decorations a few feet from the bottom of the
tree.

You might want to rethink placing gifts under the tree if
you have a puppy. Don’t use string or dangling ribbons on
packages if you have a cat. Cover the base of the tree to
keep animals from drinking the water.

There is debate over the toxicity of Poinsettias. Even if
they are not deadly, the sap is an irritant and will
probably make the animal sick. Holly and mistletoe berries
are poisonous; so keep them out of reach of pets.

—————————————————-
Elyse Grau is an herbalist and a long-time pet owner,
well-versed in pet nutrition and feeding. She is the author
of Pet Health Resource, your web guide to a healthy, happy
dog or cat. The website strives to answer your holistic pet
health questions through a large collection of articles.
http://www.pethealthresource.com

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The Truth About Pet Food - Dogs & Cats

Wednesday, October 31st, 2007

In recent times pet nutritionists have come to the
conclusion that many of today’s health problems in
animals, including physical and behavioral conditions have
their roots in poor nutrition. Many of the leading
manufacturers of so-called “quality” pet food
are responsible for this decline in your pet’s
health. Veterinarians are noticing this deteriorating
health in pets and believe that chemical additives and
preservatives play a part.

So, just what is in your dog or cats pet food?

The fact that when you open up a can of dog food you turn
your nose, is a sign that there are all sorts of gases and
odors released that are unfit for human and animal
consumption. The heavy use of preservatives such as
BHT/BHA and Ethoxyquin are likely to be responsible as well
as urine, faecal matter, hair, pus, meat from sick or
adrenalin filled animals (most animals just prior to the
kill in abattoirs release a rush of adrenalin into their
bloodstream as they intuit they are about to die).
Ethoxyquin is actually an herbicide and has had detrimental
effects on humans who were working with it in the rubber
industry. Reports of liver/kidney damage, cancerous skin
lesions, hair loss, blindness, leukemia, fetal
abnormalities and chronic diarrhea were noted and in
animals it has been linked to immune deficiency syndrome,
spleen, stomach and liver cancer, as well as the above
mentioned diseases.

It is no doubt that the increased use of chemical
preservatives in pet food is linked to the rise in pet
disease over the last 25 years. Rancid animal and poultry
fat (by-products of the meat industry) that have escaped
human consumption are the staples of most canned pet food.
These unhealthy putrid fats are difficult to digest and are
likely linked to stomach and liver disorders resulting in
bloating, gas, diarrhea and the notorious bad breath our
pets are known for.

At present, the department of agriculture does not have
mandatory inspection of the ingredients used in pet food.
They are allowed to use “4D” classification sources such as
meat, tissues, skin and insides of animals that are dead,
dying, disabled, or diseased (AND UNFIT FOR HUMAN
CONSUMPTION). Some of the animal meat used will be loaded
with heavy hormones, steroids and antibiotics from the
farming industry that continue to be “active”
in dead tissue! Add to this a host of artificial colorants,
preservatives and sweetening agents such as cornstarch and
sucrose and you have a chemical concoction bound to cause
disease in any animal that ingests it.

Cat food manufacturers use corn syrup, which cause
addiction and over stimulate the production of insulin and
acidic digestive juices. These empty sugars put a great
deal of stress on the pancreas and may result in diabetes.
They also interfere with the animal’s ability to
absorb nutrients and vitamins from their food. As with
humans, artificial sweeteners can cause hyperactivity and
behavioral problems in animals and destroy friendly
bacteria that aid in digestion. The added sugar content
could also be responsible for diseases such as diabetes,
hypoglycemia, obesity, allergies, loss of vision and cancer.

Another harmful chemical is propylene glycol, which is
responsible for prolonging the shelf life of dry products.
However, they also dehydrate the colon, causing
constipation and the formation of small, dry,hard stools.
These kinds of stools may be uncomfortable for your pet to
pass as well as leading to diseases of the digestive tract
in the long term.

The addition of salt to canned pet food is also a health
hazard. Too much refined salt can lead to hypertension,
water retention, kidney damage, palpitations and other
ailments.

To add fiber, soybean meal is added to pet food, which
hinders digestion in dogs. Peanut hulls are also used but
can be an irritant to the colon and cause constipation.

As you can see from the above, properly feeding your pet is
an essential part of caring that you, the owner is
responsible for. Just as there is a growing awareness
today of what’s healthy for humans to eat, it is just
as crucial to make sure your pet is also getting the proper
healthy nutrition it needs for optimum health. A happy pet
= a happy owner. Give YOUR pet the best chance of optimal
health through proper nutrition today.

May you both live long happy healthy lives together.

—————————————————-
Claris Rivers is a writer on the subject of Health and
Nutrition. For information on how to feed your dog healthy
and nutritious food visit the website
http://www.happywagger.co.uk

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The Best Dog or Cat Food for Your Pet

Wednesday, October 31st, 2007

Feeding a high quality dog or cat food will add years to
your pet’s life and reduce the chances of developing
many common health problems. This article will help you
identify and choose the best diet for your furry companion.

How do you know what dog/cat food is right? For many the
choice is a homemade diet. If you have the time and the
resources, I agree that this is the preferred way to go.
This is usually the best, and occasionally the only choice
for animals with multiple food allergies. The choice is
yours whether to go cooked or raw, with bones or without.

Basically, a homemade diet should consist of 40-60% meat
for dogs, 60%-90% for cats, 20-50% vegetables (dogs, or
10%-40% for cats), and the rest, optionally, grains. The
choice within each category is vast, and depends on your
budget, availability, and what the dog or cat prefers. Food
allergies often dictate what is used.

Each dog and cat is unique and what is best for one may not
work well for another. Feeding a variety of foods is the
best way to provide all or most of the nutrients that your
pet needs.

A good quality multi-vitamin and calcium supplements will
help make sure the diet is complete. It is difficult to
attain the right amount and balance of calcium to
phosphorus in a home made dog food, so be sure to include
some form of calcium supplement.

If you like the idea of homemade pet food, but lack the
time, there are pre-mixes available, or complete
ready-to-serve meals. Pre-mixes come freeze-dried,
dehydrated or frozen. Usually they are grain and vegetable
mixes, along with some supplements such as calcium, to
which you add the meat. You can also buy frozen or
freeze-dried meats, and add your own veggies and grains if
you wish.

Complete raw-foods diets are also sold as frozen, dry or
freeze-dried. Some areas may have local entrepreneurs who
make and sell these diets fresh. They may also custom make
meals to your pets specifications.

If you prefer to feed a commercial product, choose one of
the many premium dog foods now available. though the cost
may be higher than grocery store brands, what you save in
vet bills will more than make up for the difference.

Whether to feed canned or dry pet food will depend on you
and your dog or cat. Canned food is usually more expensive,
kibble is more convenient. Pets usually prefer canned foods
and some need the softer, wetter consistency. Canned pet
foods generally contain higher quality proteins than dry
pet food, and a higher percentage of protein and fat. The
higher moisture content of canned foods can be beneficial
to dogs and cats with kidney or urinary tract problems. Dry
pet foods contain more preservatives. Some people choose
to use both.

The most important criteria in choosing a pet food is the
list of ingredients. Whole meats are always better then
meat meals, and meat meals are preferable to by-products.
Single source meals, such as “beef meal” or
“chicken meal” are more wholesome than those
marked simple “meat” or “poultry” meals.
Single source meals contain the muscle meat from
that animal, along with accompanying tissues, such as
nerves, blood vessels and skin. Generic meals may contain
other organ tissues and fatty tissue. By-product meal is a
catch-all term for anything that doesn’t fit the
other meal definitions - avoid these at all costs!

Look for the meat source (or sources) to be listed first on
the label. If grains are included (which they always are in
kibbles), they should be whole grains, rather than
fractions, such as wheat bran, brewer’s rice, etc.
Watch out for multiple listings of grains, they may add up
to be more than the meat portion!

Avoid artificial flavors, colors and preservatives. Colors
are added for your benefit, not to appeal to dogs.
Artificial flavors are added to enhance palatability or
cover up off tastes of poorer quality ingredients. Premium
dog foods can be found in most natural or health food
stores and pet supply stores. If you are unable to find a
satisfactory dog food in stores near you, many of them can
be found on the internet.

—————————————————-
Elyse Grau is an herbalist and a long-time pet owner,
well-versed in pet nutrition and feeding. She is the author
of Pet Health Resource, your web guide to a healthy, happy
dog or cat. The website strives to answer your holistic pet
health questions through a large collection of articles.
http://www.pethealthresource.com

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